October 12, 2007

John Besh, Chef/Owner, Restaurant August, has returned to Secret Sauce to share another simple meal you don't have to be an award-winning chef to make, Zinfandel Braised Beef Short Ribs with creamy polenta and a ragout of fall vegetables.

Chef Besh plays Sommelier and recommends which wines to pair this delicious dish with, and tells some great tricks of the trade on how to take this recipe from simple to superb:

"This a great cold day dish that is super with a wine such as a Hendry, 2001, Zinfandel, or, for that matter, any big red wine that you enjoy. Keep in mind that the dish could be prepared as simple as it is here or dressed up with a few sautéed wild mushrooms, or shaved truffle and an herb garnish such as fried sage leaves."

Procedure: Short Ribs

• Generously season the short ribs with salt and pepper. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the zinfandel, sugar, garlic, fresh thyme, and a pinch of salt. Marinate the short ribs in the wine mixture for 12 hours in the refrigerator.

• Pour 3 ounces canola oil into a Dutch oven over high heat. Remove the short ribs from the wine and allow the beef to rest for several minutes and come to room temperature. Reserve marinade.

• Once the meat has rested, place in the hot pan. Stir and turn the meat often, carefully allowing each piece to brown on each side before removing from the pan. When browned (will take several minutes per side), remove the beef from the pan and add the onions, carrots, and celery.
• Stir constantly and allow the onions to cook until mahogany in color, about 10 minutes; if onions are browning too quickly, reduce to medium heat. Add the short ribs back to the pot along with the reserved wine marinade. Allow the wine to come to a boil before reducing the heat to a simmer, skimming foam and fat from the surface of the liquid.
• After simmering for several minutes, add remaining ingredients and allow to simmer uncovered until the meat is fork tender and nearly falling off the bone, roughly 5 hours.
• Once the beef has cooked, transfer short ribs to a dish and cover. Reduce the pan liquids until they coat the back of the spoon, simmering about 30 minutes.
• Strain the braising liquid and return the short ribs to the liquid. Season the short ribs and braising liquid to taste with salt and pepper to taste. Reserve for later use.

Note: This may all be done up to 3-4 days in advance. Reheat in oven or microwave until meat is at least 160°.

Procedure: Root Vegetable Ragout

• Cut the carrots, turnips, and parsnips into pieces of about the same size and shape, preferably a medium-sized dice. Blanch the cut carrots, turnips, parsnips, and onions together, in a pot of boiling salted water, until tender, about 5 minutes or less.
• Carefully remove from the blanching water with a slotted spoon and place into an ice water bath. Allow vegetables to cool; reserve in refrigerator until you are ready to serve them.
• To serve, put the vegetables in a small skillet along with sherry vinegar, butter, and chopped tarragon. Place the skillet over a medium low flame and warm just moments before serving. Season with salt and pepper.

Procedure: Creamy Polenta

• Lightly season 2 cups water with salt and bring to a boil. Quickly whisk in the polenta until it has been fully incorporated. Reduce the heat to a low simmer.
• Add the butter and allow the polenta to cook uncovered for 30 minutes. Stir in the mascarpone and season to taste with salt.

Note: This may be made in advance and kept in the refrigerator. Reheat in the microwave just before serving.

Assembly

• Reheat the three components of the dish separately.
• On each of 6 large plates, place a couple of spoonfuls of polenta in the center of the plate.
• Carefully remove the bones from the hot ribs and place the beef short ribs over the bed of polenta.
• In a pan over medium heat, bring the reserved braising liquid to a simmer. Once the sauce is hot, check for seasoning and, if needed, add a touch of salt and pepper.
• Spoon the sauce around the beef short ribs and polenta. Carefully place the root vegetable ragout on the beef. Serve and enjoy!

Serves 6.

Blanching is a technique where vegetables are placed in boiling water and then into ice water to halt cooking. Interestingly, although blanching is associated with "paleness," broccoli will become brighter.

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About the Chef:

John Besh sets the benchmark for fine dining in New Orleans with his restaurant family, including August, La Provence, Lüke, and Besh Steak.

His talent and drive have earned Besh critical kudos from the outset of his career: Gourmet magazine included August in its “Guide to America’s Best Restaurants," and the Zagat Guide rated August #1 in New Orleans for food and service.

In 2006, Besh received the James Beard Award for Best Chef of the Southeast. He is currently competing to become the Next Iron Chef on Food Network.

Besh has been deeply involved in helping New Orleans and its restaurant community to rebuild and reopen following the hurricanes of 2005. His restaurants celebrate and preserve the culinary culture of the city.

Visit Chef John Besh on the web @ rest-august.com.

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Secret Sauce Rewind

• Get the recipe for John's Crawfish & Andouille Grits

July 31, 2007

He's been around the world, but John Besh (Chef-Owner, Restaurant August, Besh Steak, La Provence, and Lüke) has always valued the cooking of his native southern Louisiana—never more so than after Hurricane Katrina, when so much was destroyed and the very culture and its cuisine seemed at risk. Since then, he's been striving to preserve the local style of cooking - and its local ingredients.

The Crawfish and Andouille Grits represents a range of local products and the style of his beloved cuisine like nothing else.

Procedure: White Grits

• Bring the water to a boil and lightly season with salt.
• Add the grits while stirring rapidly and reduce heat to low.
• Simmer the grits for about 20 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pot.
• To finish, turn on heat and stir in butter and mascapone cheese.

Procedure: Crawfish Stock

• To a large pot, add celery, carrot, onion, thyme, garlic, shells, and just enough water to cover the other ingredients.
• Simmer on low for 1 hour, skimming the fat off throughout the hour.
• Strain and reserve liquid in refrigerator.

Sautéed Crawfish and Sauce

Ingredients
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
30 each large crawfish
Creole spice, to taste
salt, to taste
6 tablespoons small diced Jacob’s andouille sausage
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced shallot
2 tablespoons small diced paquillo pepper
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
30 ounces crawfish stock
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups diced tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Procedure
Heat a large pan over medium heat and add the olive oil. Season the crawfish with Creole spice and sauce and sauté until they start to brown but are not cooked all the way through. Remove the crawfish and hold on the side. To the pan add the andouille sausage, garlic, shallot, paquillo pepper, and thyme and sauté until they become aromatic. add the stock and bring to a low simmer. Stir in the butter and reduce until thick. Add crawfish back to the pot and cook through. Finish with tomatoes, chives, and lemon juice.

Assembly

Ingredients
.5 cup picked chervil pluches (small three-leafed sprig of chervil)

Procedure
For each serving, place 4 tablespoons of grits in the middle of a large bowl. Arrange the crawfish (evenly divided among the plates, 5 each) in the middle so they stand up, tails facing in. Spoon the sauce around to fill in the negative space. Garnish with fresh chervil.

Serves about 6.

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About the Chef:

John Besh grew up hunting and fishing in Southern Louisiana, learning at an early age the essentials of Louisiana’s rich culinary traditions.

As a teenager, he began working in commercial kitchens, where his knowledge of food and dining truly began to blossom. “With the many cultural influences in Louisiana,” says Besh, “it’s an exciting place to learn about food.”

He has traveled the world over searching out the roots of those far-flung influences, and infuses them into the French cuisine of Restaurant August.

Each new venture gives Chef John Besh another outlet in which to focus his broad-ranging culinary passions, all of which benefit from his dedication to local products, and–though his palate has taken him around the world–reflect the multi-faceted cuisine of his beloved southern Louisiana.

Visit Chef John Besh on the web @ rest-august.com.